Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Kota Kinabalu

Kota Kinabalu (KK) or Api-Api, capital of Sabah, is Betty's hometown. KK formerly known as Jesselton, was established by British North Borneo Company. The city, is a good escape for a relaxing holiday- beautiful beaches with great panorama, first class hotels (of course we stay in our own house), shopping centers with ongoing deals and bargains, clean streets, and nice food all fall unto one city. Stressed and need a relieve? The sea breeze sweeping the city 24 hours per day, free of charge is simply refreshing. The beaches, long coast-line at the edge of the city, nature beauty sites such as Tuanku Abdul Rahman Marine Park and Lok Kawi Wildlife Park will surely cure a ladened soul.

Tanjung Aru Beach, one of the most beautiful seaside around KK. There are some food stalls along the beach.

KK is a clean and well planned city. It is a hub to many other places around, such as Mount Kinabalu, TAR Park, Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, and inland townships. KK now is a safer place (compares to around many years ago), as strict government policy has diminished the number of illegal immigrants.

A walk down to well known Gaya Street from Tugu Road, you will see few rows of shoplots with many budget hotels and food outlets (upper left), then a small well embellished garden in front of the high court building (upper right), an arch in front of the city council (lower right), and lastly, Malaysia Memorial Park at the entrance of Gaya Street.

Jesselton Hotel, fountains, Sabah Tourism Board, and Borneo Backpackers are the landmarks that we can see around Gaya Street.

Tun Razak Road, one of the main roads in KK city centre, a block away from seaside (left). The road to Promenade Hotel and Marina Condo is just a few steps away from seaside, which is located on the right side of the photo. Most of the roads in KK city is completed with alleys for pedestrian.

Beauty of nature is not the only thing that makes KK a glittering star, we need to add in nice food, shopping centres, rich culture, and a wide range of hotels. We travel to KK quite frequently (at least once a year). So, our sharing might be more focussed on some of the places of interest in KK.

After our last visit to KK during Dec 2010, we would like to bring to you Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, food around Kota Kinabalu, shopping in Kota Kinabalu, and some of the medium hotels around the city area.

Please click here and we will bring you to Lok Kawi Wildlife Park.

Friday, December 31, 2010

Shopping and Food in Siem Reap

We did some shopping in Siem Reap, and found just a handful of places to go- Angkor Night Market, Central Market, Pub Streets, Lucky Mall, and Angkor Shopping Centre. We hunted for souvenirs at Central Market and Night Market, and we learnt through our experience that we could bargain all the way down to 1/5 of the original price of the item. For instance, fridge magnet (with single colour), the price could go all the way down from one for USD 2 to four for USD 1. The scarf, at the beginning, one for USD 5. After a few attempts, we bought with four for USD 8.  We also bought the two wooden frogs (with a scrolling stick that helps to generate the sound that mimicry the sound that make by frogs) with USD 6. The price was 1/2 of what we can get in our country.

 Photos show the various products available in Central Market, Siem Reap. As we can see, the items on sale are more or less similiar to what we can get in other places in South East Asia. Some of the items are comparatively cheaper to what we can get from Malaysia. Central Market is strategically located beside Sivatha Road, with Public Bank and Advanced Bank at the both sides. 

Photos show the scenes of the main street of Siem Reap. Lucky Mall is the only air conditioned shopping mall in Siem Reap (lower left). All the shops inside the mall have the word "Luck" within their names. Angkor Shopping Center, located beside the Royal Garden, just around three hundred meters from Lucky Mall (lower right). Our personal opinion- Angkor Shopping Center is somehow an overrated tourists' trap. Central Market, Lucky Mall, and Angkor Shopping are located within walking distance from each other (from Central Market, head north for 10 minutes along Sivatha Road to reach Lucky Mall. Angkor Shopping Center located at National Road 6, five minutes north with a right turn after the first traffic light from Lucky Mall).

Several advices from us, do not bargain with the shop keepers (or even ask for the price) if you have no intention to buy the item. If you are interested, then, the best way to bargain is as easy as one two three: 1. Ask for the price of the item. 2. Let them know that it’s too expensive. 3. Turn and act like you are leaving. With this “tactic”, you can always get a good bargain (at least better than the first one that you get).

While shopping around, we received an advice from a local shopkeeper. She told us that there is no real silk products around Siem Reap cheap market area. All of the products that has claimed made by silk are fakes. She told us sincerely, “How can REAL silk products, such as scarf been sold with the price of USD 10 for five?”

“That’s ridiculous,” she added. True, as the logic behind is, if Cambodian can produce silk with that kind of price, then, the world’s silk market will definitely dominated by the country. How could we get the story from the insider? Perhaps you can try to be more friendly and talkative next time.

The signs to Angkor Night Market can be seen around the main streets. Angkor Night Market is not very big. Most of the items on sale are similiar to what we can get from Central Market. 

Please be aware that, the banks, hotels, supermarkets, and some local restaurants are not accepting USD notes that are scratched, stained, or looked old. However, we did received several such notes from Siem Reap's market. The shopkeepers and the banks always appear with the same phrase,” We in Siem Reap are not accepting this type of notes”. But that doesn't mean that they won't give it away. So, beware.


USD is almost everywhere in Siem Reap, to an extent that we felt that Riel (Cambodian currency) doesn't exist at all. Anyway, hawkers and some of the shops do accept Riel. They will convert the stated price in USD to Riel. The photo shows the food prices in USD. (Updated on 1 Sept 2011)

The pricing for tourist is done in USD- Three day visit U$ 40.00 (upper left), US$ 929k for phase II funding (upper right), only 7$/day for full day use (lower left), and bike $ 1.50/day for rent. Frankly, we use Riel only when we paid for using the toilets (200 - 500 Riels per person per usage). (Updated on 1 Sept 2011)

Then, talk about food, that’s really delighting! The local food at Siem Reap was really good, or in another way, met our tastes. We really felt that, eating local food in Siem Reap was an enjoyable experience. Starting from the first lunch at Tany Khmer Family Kitchen at Siem Reap, to the buffet dinner with traditional dances at Mondial Restaurant; from the restaurants beside Sras Srang to the eateries at Pub Street, all of them were good. Well, that’s 100% consistency and accuracy of good taste for local food. How about the fast food? We tried some fast food and ice cream in Lucky Mall, and to be frank… no more next time.

Okay, so, all of them were good. How about the price? For us, the food at Siem Reap was reasonably priced.  Tany Khmer in Siem Reap is comparatively higher in price, with average of USD 7 per person per meal. In Sras Srang area (Sras Srang is a reservoir east to Angkor Thom), we tried two. Khmer Village Restaurant  and another new one without the sign board yet. Both with an average of USD 2 – 4.5 per person per meal.

The buffet dinner with traditional dances at Mondial Restaurant cost USD 12 per person.  We tried several different Cambodian traditional food there, with very interesting dances performance. Buffet starts at 6:30 – 9:00 pm, while the performance is 7:30 – 8:30 pm. The buffet with traditional dances is available in several other restaurants too.

Must try dishes? Please refer to the photos below.

Food available in Siem Reap. These are some of the very traditional Cambodian food. Bahut is a mixture of raw veges and fried food, with pork and salted fish sauce (upper left). Teyo is some sort wrapped of fresh veges and spices (upper middle). Lola is a dish with fried egg and beef (or chicken), cooked together with local spices (upper right). Amok is something that you should try (lower left). The dish contains fresh vegetables and meat cooked in amok spices. Fried veges and meat with cashew nut is quite popular in Siem Reap (lower middle). While the Cambodian curry, not hot at all for us (it's quite sweet in taste). All the local food are quite reasonably price. All the food mentioned above were below USD 2.50 per serving. 

Streamboat with vegetables, beef, chicken, and egg. It was around USD 4 per set.

With USD 0.75 per coconut, we really enjoyed our time with lots and lots of coconuts.

The best place to stay awake at night in Siem Reap is the Pub Streets. Pub streets consist of few streets around Pub Street Alley at the old town area. Pub streets are the most happening place at night. We stayed around the area until 11 pm, with none of the shops showed the intention to end their business for the day.

Night at Pub Streets, Siem Reap.

Alley in Pub Streets.

To move around at Siem Reap, we have several options- by foot, bicycle, motorbike, tuk-tuk, saloon, van, or bus. For our whole family, we opt to rent air cond minibus on our trip to Angkor area. The rental was USD 35 per day (we gave away USD 5 as tips for the excellent service). We tried tuk-tuk as well, when we were roaming around the town area. The charge for tuk-tuk is around USD 1 - 2 per trip. However, tuk-tuk can be rented with USD 15 per day. Bicycle, yes, USD 2 per day, car, USD 30 per day. The price for the transportation is subjected to negotiation. However, a big difference shouldn't be expected.

Bicycles and motorbike on rental, are available almost on every street in Siem Reap.

Tuk-tuk for USD 1 from Lucky Mall to our hotel.

We stayed in Central Boutique Angkor Hotel at Tapoul Road. The hotel was good. The room for the hotel was clean, well designed, and the whole area for the hotel was well shrubed. The hotel has a nice pool, a bar, and the restaurant, hmm, with nice food as well. For our opinion, that three stars hotel is much more nicer than the one we got in our Bali trip.

About the service, well, the room service was excellent, and the maintenance worker came within minutes after been summoned to fix our bath tub. The cooks were willing to go extra miles by packing the breakfast for us in 5:30 am, when we needed to depart early to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. The downside, the workers (receptionist) was not so fluent in English (but still communicable), and, accept no "handicapped" USD notes.

Room for two (left), inside the bathroom (middle), and the resting table set outside each of the room.

The hotel has a nice swimming pool, which always full with people in late afternoon. The beautifully landscaped walkway to the lobby of the hotel.

A trip to Siem Reap was really a great experience for all of us. The friendly locals, with great and magnificent monuments from the ancient empire, and the food. It is indeed a good place for us to revisit in future :-)

High resolution Travel Photos of Siem Reap is available at Our Travel Photo Gallery. Back to All Our Destinations.




[Preah Khan and Ta Prohm] [Shopping and Food in Siem Reap]
[All Our Destinations]

Preah Khan and Ta Prohm

We continued to visit Preah Khan after stayed for about one hour at Baphuon and the surrounding area. We headed north and drove for ten minutes to reach the temple. Preah Khan and Ta Prohm both were built by Jayavarman VII, in order to honour his father and mother respectively. 

For the name translated as "Sacred Sword", Preah Khan was a unique temple, dedicated not only to Hinduism gods such as Shiva and Vishnu, but to Buddhist and local deities. Built 40 years after Angkor Wat, the compound of the temple reached an incredible area of 700 x 800 m, surrounded by 100 m wide moat. The temple was crowned with 102 prasats (towers) and stone edifices. The temple attracted as many as 100,000 people to stay at the surrounding area at its peak.

The grandness of the temple could be felt far away, by the pillars placed on both side of the road that lead to the temple. Approached from west, the center gopura for the fourth enclosure had collapsed. We went through the enclosure through engineer-reinforced side entrance. From west to east, we took a cut through the temple. Claimed much by the nature, the temple was more or less a ruin. Most of the roofs were missing, and many paths, inaccessible.

The west entrance of Preah Khan under construction (left). Many of the area are still in laterite ruins (middle). However, we could see that the restoration is in progress. One of the prasat in Preah Khan is consumed by Kapok Tree.

Preah Khan is one of the most least restored temple in Angkor Archaeology Park. No roof can be seen for most of the structures (left and middle). Many of the walls fell.

From westernmost of the third enclosure, we went through the temple of Vishnu. We reached the second enclosure through gopura, and lastly, the middle enclosure with center prasat. Beneath the prasat, stood the stupa. We continued to move east till we passed through Hall of Dancers, and rested for a while at the platform at the fourth enclosure. Within the third enclosure, from side to side, roughly counted, 150 m in distance, 15 minutes by feet. The eastern wall of the third enclosure has a spectacular view of a big kapok tree grows above it.

The sole double storey building in Preah Khan, located beside Hall of Dancers. The real function of the building is still under debate. Some said, it carries religious purposes, while some, it might be a store room. The round pillar used for that structure was the very first could be found in Khmer architectural history.

Kapok overgrown the eastern wall of Preah Khan. From this photo, Bryant could be seen standing at the center platform, taking the photo of the temple, and he was just nice to be a good reference to show the size of the temple.

Close up of the root of the Kapok.

The sculptures in the temple were detailed, especially for apsaras. As long as we had noticed, all the apsara sculptures were different from each other, either in postures, or the objects carried in their hands. The sculptures on gopuras and above the doors were in great details.

Stupa at the middle of Preah Khan, showing Buddhism was the strongest influential religion during the reign of Jayavarman VII. 


Ta Prohm, or "Ancestor of Brahma", is magnificent and emotional arousing. The laterite enclosure that last until today is 1000 x 600 m. According to the inscription, the temple had 39 prasats, 566 stone houses (stone house was rare during that time), and 260 divine images. The temple once accommodated 12,000 people and the mother of the King Jayavarman VII. The temple was built in 1186 A.D., 36 years after Angkor Wat.

The temple once was abandoned and left to be claimed by overgrown forest. As discovered, the temple was severely damaged with many kapok and fig trees grown on the top of the temple’s structure. The root of the trees grown through the wall, and reach the ground for nutrients and water. The structure versus the trees, a slow wrestling which the nature own the advantage.

We entered the outermost enclosure of Ta Prohm via the east gate to avoid congesting crowd (most visitors enter through the west gate). From the gopura till the first sight of the temple, around 400 m. The temple is huge, with some path for us, some for the workers on restoration, and others, inaccessible.

A long walk to Ta Prohm, after we entered the first enclosure.

Group photo at the second enclosure of Ta Prohm. We were standing on the platform leading to the gopura for the second enclosure.

From the east, we horded through the gopura of the fourth enclosure, crossed beside Hall of Dancers, then enter another enclosure (horded because there were really a lot of visitors). The deeper we went, the lesser the ability to get the right direction. At last, we decided to let go by simply follow the path that has been prepared by the authority. Anyway, we successfully identified several hot spots for the postcards and publications. We spent around one and a half hours in the temple.

Gopura for the second enclosure (left) and the sculpture on the wall of Ta Prohm.

Can you see the tree overgrowing the temple? Then you can surely see the visitors there. So, please don't be imaginative that you are alone in the ancient ruins that the spirit of the old will somehow pops up and scared you.

We are so proud of this photo. Why? This is the place where the cover photo of an issue for Nat Geo was taken.

Ta Prohm is a temple that is hard to describe with words and photos. The best way to get the feeling of perfect blend of nature with one of the greatest manmade structure of its time… venture into it and take it by yourself. Extra information, Ta Prohm was a shooting site for the movie “Tomb Raider”.

Doorway lead by the walkway, built for leading the visitors to the right way (left). A block on the walkway might mean a turn is necessary. 

A scene in the second enclosure of the east entrance.

Ta Prohm is huge and rich in bas-reliefs. The nagas showed the strong influence from Hinduism and Buddhism (middle). Sculptures of deva with different poses were available at almost all the entrance to the building.

We visited Ta Keo, by just looking at it from the main road, on our way from Angkor Thom to Sras Srang for lunch. Ta Keo is a prominent edifice that we will never miss, if we take the main road from the east gate of Angkor Thom to Sras Srang. The construction of the temple started around 985 A.D. (165 years before Angkor Wat). It is an incomplete masterpiece of two kings- Jayavarman V and Jayaviravarman. The construction halted after Jayaviravarman, the successor of Jayavarman V, was defeated by Suryavarman I. Ta Keo is 45 m high (height of 15 storeys building), with the outermost enclosure of 120 x 106 m.

Ta Keo from the roadside.

The middle prasats of Ta Keo. Can you see the visitors entering the left prasat? From there, you might be able to imagine the size of the whole temple.

We finished our third day by the marathon that ended on Ta Prohm. We rested, then, we were off again to visit Siem Reap Night Market and Pub Street. We roamed around Siem Reap for food and shopping for our fourth day in Siem Reap.