Thursday, September 1, 2011

Matu-Daro to Dalat

Second stop, Daro, 60 km from Tanjung Manis, and we took 2 hours 15 minutes. The duration of the trip was much longer than what we had expected, for we had to take 2 ferries. First ferry was nice with 15 minutes crossing. The second at Muara Lassa (Delta of Lassa) almost got us killed by waiting. Strong current and wide river were the culprits. It took us 1 hour 20 minutes to complete our crossing.

A ferry is approaching the ferry point (upper left). Sign board at the ferry point, stating the operation and the fees of using the ferry service (upper right). All the vehicles are required to line up at the ferry point (lower left), where one or two small stalls were set up by the locals for business. The stall owners are mostly Melanau.

Our advice is, while we were waiting for the ferries, why don't we take a close examination on the river bank and we would see these small creatures. Mudskipper- the fish that can live on the ground for hours (left) and small crabs.

A scene on the ferry.

Cars are disembarking from the ferry.

Daro is a small town by the river of Daro, with a population of 20-30 k. The name Daro is quite similiar to a UNESCO heritage site- Mohenjo Daro in Pakistan :p Unlike the mightly Igan or Rejang River, Daro River is small. Daro Town consists of two rows of very old wooden shops by the side of the river, and a few rows of concrete shops behind the wooden shops. Across the small river (probably 30 feet wide) is the residential kampung (village), which most of the houses are made by wood.

Two rows of old wooden shops by Daro River (upper row). Community fire brigade is located just beside Daro River (lower left). A closer look on the old shops reveals that the whole structure is in fact made by wood, except the roof.

Although road is built connecting the town folks to the outer world (upper left), boats are remain as one of the major transports for them. Water garage for the private speed boats can be seen along the river (upper right), while Hospital Daro has their speed boat unit ready to serve (lower right). A small bridge linking the people on the opposite side of the river was built at the end of the small town.

Upper row shows the newer Daro township with concrete buildings, located just behind the old wooden shops (if we come by road, we will see the concrete shops first). The petrol station is really simple (lower left). The fish and the tiled walkway are parts of a small garden by the river.

Pasar Ramadhan was held in Daro, during our visit. A youngster was showing off his skill while waiting for the break of fasting.

Roasted chicken for break-fast? That's the least that we can get from Daro Town. We bought some kuih-muih, rendang chicken, and umai before leaving the town for our next stop- Matu.

Our third stop, Matu, approximately 30 km away from Daro. We took 20 minutes to reach Matu from Daro. Matu is a really small town (a village should be more appropriate), with the center of 2 rows of wooden shops.

The modern-look concrete buildings for the police station (left) and the district council (right) gave us a feeling of "out-of-syn" in the small town of Matu.

Matu Town is really small, with two rows of wooden shops (upper row). The clinic of Matu is situated in a kampung house building (lower left). We met several kings of the road when we were leaving Matu Town. What else can we do other than to give way to the moo-moo?

To reach our fourth stop at Kampung Igan (Igan Village), we had to cross Igan River for the second time, using ferry (the first crossing was through the Igan Bridge at the very beginning of our trip). That was the third and the last ferry that we had to take. The ferry didn't keep us waiting. We took 20 minutes for the crossing. LS's father used to teach at SK Kampung Igan, about 30 years ago. During the time, the village was accessible only by the river.

We were greeted by a group of monkeys at Matu's ferry point. One of them showed its dissapointment upon the no-animal-onboard policy (left). However, one swallow had been given the VIP pass to sit on the ferry for the crossing, without labouring its wing :p

The old wooden building of SK Kampung Igan was abandoned, and replaced by several concrete buildings at about 300 meters away. To our surprise, several workers and parents at the school were able to recognize LS's father, with just a little bit of hints given. They were the students of the school 30 years ago, grown up, trained, and then went back to Daro to work. They told us that some of the students are now very successful in their life. That's a great news for a teacher.

Houses at Kampung Igan (upper row). The old school building had been abandoned (lower left), replaced by new concrete buildings (lower right).

Photo taken in front of SK Kampung Igan.

We took 30 minutes to travel another 25 km from Kampung Igan to Oya. The small town (or should be considered as a village) has a total 3 rows of wooden shops along the road. The population, the most, a few hundreds. We make a quick stop at Oya, just to answer to the call of nature.

The shops at Oya Town (upper row), which the wooden shops on the upper right is authentically unstable, which is not caused by the wide angle distortion. Oya Town is located beside Oya River (lower left), with a small school SJK Yak Tee sits right in the middle of the town. Construction to build a new township is now in progress about one km away from the old town.

Our photo beside the main road of Oya Town.

Our sixth stop was Dalat. LS and his parents own some memories of Dalat. Dalat turned up to be the resting point for LS's parents to travel from Narub to Sibu,  many many years back, when his parents were teaching in San San Primary School in Narub.

Dalat has developed much, and it's totally different from it's old days. The old wooden shops were replaced by concrete buildings, and the whole town were beautified and well landscaped. It is hard to imagine that right in the middle of the Borneo jungle, a small town like Dalat can emerge, survive the emigration, and grow through the time. From the talk with old friends (didn't meet for more than 25 years, but still able to recognize each others. Strange, isn't it?), more development are coming, and the business is getting better.

The Chinese temple (upper left), the village on the opposite of Oya River (yes, Dalat and Oya Town shared the same river, upper right), and the green petrol station (lower left) are still remained on their old locations. However, new shops are emerging in the surrounding area, thanks to the effort of the local government.

This nicely landscaped garden was where the old wooden shoplots previously stand (photo is not well-joint using panorama setting). The old shoplots were turned into ashes, caught by fire many years ago. However, the curse of fire had turned into the reborn of the town, like the arising of the phoenix through the inferno flame.

Photo session at the garden.

The reunion of the really old friends (no joke) after more than 25 years aparted. We have a promise to keep- to meet them again in future. This was the coffee house that LS and his parents used to visit 25 years ago, same owner, but difference location.

We stayed at Dalat for more than an hour, tried to pick up old memories catching the latest development. After a drink with the old friends, we set off to Mukah. Mukah was the final destination of the day, roughly 35 km from Dalat, and we took around 30 minutes to reach Mukah.

What to expect in Matu-Daro, Kampung Igan, and Oya-Dalat?
  • Small towns. Populated by different races- Melanau, Chinese, Iban, Malay, and other natives.
  • Some nice food- rendang chicken and umai from Daro. Nice tea and coffee at Dalat.
  • Daro and Dalat are the bigger town with more shops, and probably a better place to rest. Matu, Kampung Igan and Oya are small, with only 2 - 3 row of shops.
  • The ferry service at Matu stops after 6 pm and will resume early the next day morning.
For more information about these places, please visit:

We headed to Mukah, our last stop for the day.



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Tanjung Manis

We have just completed our roadtrip, from Sibu to Mukah using Sarawak Coastal Road, and had passed through the several small towns like Tanjung Manis, Daro, Matu, Kampung Igan, Oya, and Dalat. This roadtrip was made possible, upon the completion of Sarawak Coastal Road, around two years ago. With the wide distribution of rivers branching through the land, we went through many bridges and 3 ferries that connect the places, which some of them, never before been connected to civilization through land. Tanjung Manis is the first stop of our roadtrip with our family members.

Some of these places are so seclusive that they are not even shown in Google Maps. The green lines indicate the route for our roadtrip (of course, the road won't be so straight), which are not yet been indicated in Google Map. To go to Tanjung Manis from Sibu, we need to cross Igan Bridge. Then, follow the signs and we won't get lost. From Mukah back to Sibu, we followed the road indicated in Google Maps (orange curves).

Most of the area are not populated, as what we could see out of the window. Houses and people are rare here, and most of the time, we travelled with zero connection for our handphones.

From Sibu, our first stop was Tanjung Manis. In one hour time, we travelled 80 km by crossing 7 major bridges- Igan Bridge, Lebaan Bridge, Lengan Bridge, Setubah Bridge, Serdeng Bridge, Loba Pulau Bridge, and Belawai Bridge. These bridges were built with great engineering skills, cutting through the swarmpy area at the delta of two great rivers- Rejang River and Igan River. The second bridge, Lebaan Bridge with a total length of 1.24 km, is the longest river-crossing bridge in Malaysia.

Lebaan Bridge from a distance away.

Upper row shows the condition of the bridges. A scene at the highest point of Lebaan Bridge (lower left), high above Lebaan River. Nipah trees are common at  the banks of the rivers.

Tanjung Manis is emerging as an important place in Sarawak, which might turn out to become next modern industrial hub in Sarawak. Now, the construction across the area is in full swing. Airport had been built (One trip per day on Mas Wing), seaport building is in progress, and power supply will be backed by Bakun Dam. Everything is done based on Sarawak Government Master plan, to turn the area from a small settlement into mega halal food industrial hub, which is a part of Sarawak Corridor of Renewable Energy (SCORE).

Kompleks Lembaga Kemajuan Ikan Malaysia (LKIM) is the landmark for Tanjung Manis. Maybe, not for long.

Nice quarters for the workers at Tanjung Manis.

Harbour of Tanjung Manis, serves as the transportation terminal for the locals (upper row). The express boats are the major river transports for the locals (lower left). We can see many of these express boats at Sibu harbour too. The terminal is ready with open space waiting rooms equipped with ample chairs (lower right).

A souvenir shop and a cafe is available in the terminal (upper row). Hard wood furniture and some of the local handicrafts available for sale (lower row). Anyway, due to the low supply and low demand, the price of the items on sell is higher than other places. For food, there are several cafes and coffee shops just a few hundred steps away from the terminal, serving more variety of food and drinks.

Some of the locals are fishing at the harbour. They are friendly and talkative.

Panorama view of the shops from the terminal of Tanjung Manis.

The shops at Tanjung Manis. Many of the shops have been converted into swallow houses.

Airport of Tanjung Manis at Belawai, is around 15 minutes away from the harbour.

The development plan for Tanjung Manis is displayed at the airport. Better plan are available at hdcglobal.com.

What to expect in Tanjung Manis?
  • A simple small town with very few people.
  • Several shoplots have been converted into shallow houses, with loud shallow luring sound.
  • Lorries and trucks for constructions.
  • The most attractive buildings are the small harbour, the airport, and the complex of Malaysian Fishery Board (LKIM).
For more information about Tanjung Manis, please visit:
Our trip continued with our next stop at Daro.



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Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Attractions in Sibu

Mid August 2011, we went back to Sibu for a five days' vacation. Sibu is a small town in the middle of Borneo Island, with around 200 thousands population. Motivated by the feedback from our reader, we have collected more information this time.

Wong Nai Siong Garden is still on the top of our list. The Foochow immigrants from Fujian Province once landed their very first step on the land of Hornbill, right on the bank of Sungai Merah, or the red river, beside the garden. A total of 72 pioneers landed on February 20, year 1901, followed by the rest and made a total of 1118.

"The country is blessed by Sibu" are carved in Wong Nai Siong Garden, as a token of gratitude to the contribution of Wong Nai Siong. The names of the fathers of Sibu are stated on the wall behind the statue. LS's great grandfather is one of them.

Statue of Wong Nai Siong (left) stood still in the garden, facing the busy Tun Abang Haji Openg Road. The road was just a small bicycle track during the early time of Sibu. The garden attracts many visitors, both from local and international.

Sungai Merah Town is clearly reflected on Sungai Merah. "Sungai" means river, while "Merah" means red. This was the location where the immigrants debarked from their long voyage. The place is well-remembered, for the small step they made long ago had brought a big leap to Sarawak today. The garden is place for us to feel the flow of the red river, the heat of the sun, the touches of wind, and the heartbeats of the people who were there a century ago. The garden is located in the middle of Sungai Merah Town (Sungai Merah means Red River), around 5 km away from the Sibu Town center, which can be accessed by bus or taxi. If you drive by your own, the parking at Sungai Merah is free.

Wong Nai Siong Garden is located in the middle of Sungai Merah Town. We can get a nice meal at the food stalls in the town's market, or coffee shops which scatter around the little town. Our recommendation, the fried noodle and "koew tiao" at the market (they open until noon). If you wish to try the authentic Sibu food- kampua, then you will need to observe- find a coffee shop with many customers, that should be the one for you.

Sungai Merah Town is a part of Sibu Town. The bridge provides the crossing of the river. Wong Nai Siong Garden is just in front of the blue-roofed building.

The shops on the another side of the river. Sungai Merah Market is the building with the red roof. Today, Sibu Town has developed and expanded far beyond the border of Sungai Merah. Children of Sibu spreads even further, across the world.

Hoover Memorial Garden, around 1 km away from Sungai Merah Town is a little bit tricky to be reached. You need to head north (opposite direction to Sibu Town center) from Sungai Merah using Tun Abang Hj. Openg Road., turn left on the first traffic light, and the garden is on the left side at the end of the road. The garden is built by the Methodist churches of Sibu, in commemorating the contribution of James M. Hoover, a US missionary who had spent his life selflessly in Sibu.

Panorama of Hoover Memorial Garden. As a candle, he burned himself to brighten up the others. 

"A drop of water that influenced the valley of Rejang River. With a drop of blood, he served the people of Sibu. He is James M. Hoover, a missionary". That is how he is remembered by the people in Sibu, as been inscripted in the garden.

Some of the history and biography of Hoover, printed on bronze plates (upper row). 1118 stars represents the total of the Foochow immigrants (lower left). Nine pillars represents the fruits of the Holy Spirits. He brought the faith and Christianity, together with the technologies, such as the first telegraph, the first round saw for timber industry, first ice making machine, first bicycle, first generator for electricity, first rice mill, first agriculture school, first convent school, and above all, the rubber trees that boost the income of  the local people.

To reach the memorial garden, you can drive, or go by taxi, or you can even walk there from Sungai Merah Town. However, bear in mind that the garden is quite isolated. Getting a taxi from the garden might be impossible, without a prayer.

Heading back to Sibu Town center, there are several spots that we should visit.

Sibu Town Square. The town square is the biggest in Malaysia, spanning from Wisma Sanyan to the side of two great rivers of Borneo- Rejang River and Igan River. From the town square, we can in fact enjoy the view of the splitting point of these two rivers. Rejang River is the longest river in Malaysia. We can take a short visit on Lau King Howe Hospital Memorial Museum, Rejang Port Authority Building (take a look from the outside), take a look at the statue of swans and horses, and perhaps, join the local activities and carnivals, which will be held from time to time at the square.

Panorama view of Sibu Town Square, from Wisma Sanyan.

Wisma Sanyan (middle) and RH Hotel are prominent from the town square.

The gate marks the starting point of the Corridor of Creativity (upper left). Lau King Howe Hospital Memorial Museum is located at the bank of the Rejang River (lower right). Rejang Port Authority carries a unique ship-shaped structure (upper right). The statues of horses and swans are located at the opposite sides of the town square.

Corridor of Creativity beside the town square, parallel with Island Road is a place prepared for Sibu people to show their creativity. However, the corridor is not well utilized.

Masland Methodist Church, Hoover House, and Methodist Primary School. Masland Methodist Church is a white building with a cross built high above the ground, is one of the most beautiful church in Sibu. Hoover House is built beside the church. The house is dedicated to James Hoover, which is currently used to accommodate the activities for churches. The Methodist Primary School is just located behind Hoover House. It was the very first primary school setup by Rev. and Mrs. Hoover. The old school building had long devoured. However, the location remained. The church, the school, and Hoover House can be reached from town square by foot, say 10 minutes, maximum.

Hover House is a modern building (upper left). On one of the walls in Hoover House carved the phrase "The World is My Parish" (lower left). Masland Methodist Church is located side by side to Hoover House (upper right). Photo at lower right shows a scene from Hoover Square.

A scene at Jalan Pulau, or Island Road, Sibu. 

At the end of Island Road (starting from Sibu Town Square), we can see Sibu Central Market on our left and the Pagoda on our right. The pagoda is within the compound of Temple of Forever Peace- "Yong An Ting". We need some luck for us to access to the upper levels of the pagoda, as it is locked from public for most of the time.

Yong An Ting and the pagoda. Some refer Yong An Ting as "tua-pek-gong" temple.

Sibu Central Market is the biggest central market in Malaysia. Located at Channel Road, the market is rich in variety, as well as indigeneity. The market is extremely busy in the morning. The market is a must visit place in Sibu. Make sure that you don't miss the rattan-made products (these type of products are getting lesser due to the limited supply, and the price soars higher, day by day), sago products, raw paku and midin, durian, dabai (seasonal), and the world class Sibu-made pottery and black pepper. The upper level of the central market consists of mini retail shops and food stalls.

The outlook of Sibu Central Market, by Channel Road.

The ground floor of the market houses hundreds of the hawkers, with wide variety of items sold on their stalls.

One of the entrance of the market. The market is nearby the bus terminal and the express boat terminal.

What is Mulung?? (upper left). Mulung is unprocessed sago. Rice from Bario (upper middle), and paku fern. The rattan products and the pottery can be bought from the market, while the creativity can be seen from the way the chicken for sell are wrapped (middle row). Local mandarin and different types of durians are some of the must-try fruit in Sibu (durian is seasonal). Please try your best not to come out from the market with empty hand :-)

Sibu Express Terminal is by foot, 5 minutes away Central Market. Express terminal here is for the express boat, not for the buses. The express terminal is a place that you should stop and take a look for a while. Experience the hustle-bustle, and take a look on the faces of those who are waiting. Then, you will appreciate how lucky we are to be connected by roads. Many of the places in vicinity of Sibu can only be reached through the rivers. Sibu Express Terminal is located at Khoo Peng Loong Road, beside the taxi terminal and the local bus terminal.

The modern terminal for one of the most ancient mean of transportation- boat (upper left). The ticket counters with the departure times and destinations (upper right). The express boats by the terminal (lower left) and the waiting crowd at the terminal departure hall.

Another harbour in between the pagoda and the Sibu Express Terminal, for the slower vessels that commute with nearer destinations.

Two latest generation (3.0) express boats with an old predecessor (1.0) in the middle (upper left). Three hundred horse power, four stokes engine, one minute from 0 - 100 km/h... new specs make the motorboat a quick way of connecting people along the rivers (upper right). Motor launches, carriers, etc. (lower left). Orient Pandaw is the new tourist attraction that cruise along Rejang River.

Sibu District Taxi Station and bus station is located beside the express terminal. This place is in fact the regional transportation hub. Another taxi station is located at Wong Nai Siong Road.

The Rejang Esplanade is located beside the express terminal. It is a small garden, but nicely landscaped. Hii Garden is part of the esplanade. "Hii", is a Chinese surname. Embedded in the esplanade, the garden is a part of several surname-themed gardens in Sibu. 

The square of Rejang Esplanade (upper left), a part of Hii Garden (upper right), the restaurant by the river (lower left) and the children playground.

We would recommend to see the Swan Statue as well. The swans were believed saving the people in Sibu from famine and starvation by showing the people that sago is edible. The statue is located at an end of the esplanade.

The Swan Statue.

There is one more place that you should not miss before you head back to your hotel- Sibu Heritage Centre. The heritage centre is a fusion show of history, cultural, and social-economy. The exhibition is arranged into a flow of stories. From the history of Sibu, ethnics, culture, economy, education and some of the religion and believes. We spent around one hour in the centre. The admission is free, photography is strictly prohibited. The centre is strategically located between Central Rd. and Wong Nai Siong Rd., around 300 meters away from Wisma Sanyan.

Eye catching sign of Sibu Heritage Centre surprised us by its exhibition, with numerous artifacts and exhibits, mostly donated by the locals. The heritage centre is wheel chair friendly.

Central Road, where Sibu Heritage Centre located. These two photos were taken in front of the centre, one to the left (with Premier Hotel at far back), and another to the right Masland Methodist at far back).

Night market is another attraction of Sibu. The night market is held every night. Be early, as the market will start closing around 9:30 pm. The location, the area surrounded by four roads- Channel, Bengkel, Central, and Lintang.

These parking areas are the location of night market.

Several parks which are popular to locals are Bukit Aup Park, Lakeside Park, and Forest Park. If you are about to stay in Sibu for several days, then you may want to visit some of those parks.

Bukit Aup (Aup Hill) Park is several kilometers away from Sungai Merah. It used to be the biggest park in Sibu. However, without proper maintenance, the park now is consumed by the natural elements. The good scenery on the top of Aup Hill however, remained the same. As the park is very far from the town centre, a taxi is the best transport to bring you there. Of course, you can drive as well. Taking bus is not advisable.

Bukit Aup Park with two different lakes (the lower is shown in upper row, while the upper lake is shown in lower left). The staircase leads to the top of a hill is not very well maintained. From what we can see from upper right, the water in the lake was dirty.

Lakeside Park is located nearby Sibu General Hospital. The center of the garden is a big lake, with several water activities provided. The good part of the park, the food. The food court at beside the lake provides up-to-standard food, and good view over the lake. During our last visit, it was cold rainy evening with the strong blowing wind. The feeling, good! Anyway, as far as we know, we need to go there by our own transport. Taxi might be a good idea, but you might need the same taxi to bring you back.

A nice open space with roof taking the motif of Melanau's hat beside the lake (upper left). A scene of the lake of Sibu Lakeside Park (upper right). The park is readied with water activities (lower left). The food at the food court by the lake is nice. However, it is quite far away from the town center.

In fact, all the attractions in Sibu Town center can be reached by foot. The map of Sibu Town is available at Sibu Airport, or at any major hotels. Now, let us go to the accommodation and food in Sibu.



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