Saturday, May 12, 2012

Yogyakarta Trip Day 2 - Kraton Palace and Taman Sari Water Castle

Prambanan and Borobudur are the names that always been mentioned with Yogyakarta. However, both of the temples are actually not located in the province of Yogya, but in Central Jawa. Our second day in Yogya, after spending 3 hours visiting Candi Borobudur in the morning, we went back to Yogya to visit two of the most historical sites within the city- Kraton Palace (or Karaton Ngayogyakarta by the locals) and Taman Sari Water Castle.

Kraton Palace was built in 1790. It is the symbol of the king and the sultanate of Yogyakarta, successor of Sultanate of Mataram. The palace was built facing Mount Merapi, with Tugu Monument stands in line between them. We read in an article, saying that the monument was served as a mark for the sultan to observe the condition of the volcano in early days. After the independence of Indonesia in 1949, Yogyakarta has been given the autonomous in administration under the king and formed the Special Region of Yogyakarta. The Palace is located at the southern end of Malioboro Road, and it is quite easy to be reached (20 minutes by foot from Dagen Road). The entrance fee is RP 15,000 (tour guide is included) with additional RP 1000 for our camera. The palace is open to public from 8 am - 2 pm daily. The palace is closed to public one hour earlier on Friday.

Once we got our tickets checked, we went into the compound of Kraton Palace. The palace is dominated by Jawanese architecture, art and design, with a blend of Hinduism and Islamic influences. This white in the photo gate leads to the main palace compound. There are two guardian statues at the side of the gate, the left one is guarding the good events while the right, bad events.

There is a theater at the right side of the white gate, with traditional dance and Royal Gamelan Musicians on shows. That was the first time for us to see a full set of Gamelan. Gamelan is an assemble of traditional musical instruments originated from Jawa.

After we entered the white gate, we could see the stage of modern music (upper left) on the left, where the modern music players perform in royal occasions. Behind the stage is the house of the musicians (lower left). To the right is sultan's residence (upper right). Sultan is in his residence if the lamps in front of the residence are turned on. We grabbed an opportunity to take photo with one of the palace's guards. The palace guards are still wearing the traditional costumes and equipped with keris (traditional Malay dagger), and walk in bare foot.

Many of the equipments which were used in olden days are still displayed. The large wooden box on upper left used to be the place for sultan to store his puppets for wayang-kulit show. The big drum on upper right was used to remind sultan about the time to pray. The small litters (or sedan-chairs) on lower left were the vehicles to carry the dowry during royal marriage. Our English speaking guide was super friendly. She even showed us how the fire alarm was sound during the olden days.

The golden museum is one for the many buildings that showcases the collection of sultans, built by one of the sultans of Yogya to commemorate his own "golden era". This dark wooden building is eye-catching in the middle of white buildings.

Many antiques are displayed in the palace. One of them is the light bulbs used many years ago in the palace (left). 300 years old gamelan which is played only during Prophet Muhammad's Birthday (upper right) and the cameras used by the sultans are displayed as well.
With the mind set of how a "palace" should look like (such as the sultanate palaces in Malaysia), the modesty of Kraton Palace impressed us in a different way- that's why the people here love their sultan very much- live an ordinary life.

Taman Sari (or Tamansari) Water Castle is situated inside Kraton compound. The castle used to be the royal garden of the sultanate. Built around 1750, the castle is believed to be an area for the former kings to rest, meditate, defence, and even to escape from the enemies. The castle is believed to be a place for the kings to accommodate their concubines.The entrance fee is RP 7000 (RM 2.50 or less than USD 0.80), with additional RP 1000 for camera. The castle is opened to visitors 9 am - 3:30 pm daily.

Taman Sari consists of four different area - the first in the middle is a large bathing area with 2 pools, to the west is an artificial lake (the water has been drained out), smaller bathing pool for the sultan at the east, and a compound for royal function at the south (just after the entrance).

According to our tour guide, most of the area of Taman Sari have been occupied by the village folks, whom many of them are working for Kraton. However, in future, all the village folks will have to move out of the area in order to give Taman Sari a place on the list of World Heritage Site.

The current entrance of Taman Sari Water Castle was originally the back door of the castle. The main entrance was closed as it is not easy to be reached by visitors.

The entrance lead us into compound, where the sultans used to conduct their royal ceremony there. The small pavilions were once used as the performing stages for the musicians.

This is the picturesque scene that we saw at the center of the water castle. This is the scene that appears on many postcards. The tower used to be the location where the sultans looked for the "right one" to spend a night with.
Photo taken with LS's parents by the pool, where the concubines of the sultans used to swim inside.

Going in deeper and this is what we saw- the main entrance of the water castle. The other side of the wall has been fully occupied by the village folks. This closed entrance marks the furthest point that we could access in this castle. Lead by our tour guide, we turned right to visit the artificial lake and the underground passages.

This is one of the entrances to the underground passage. The artificial lake has been filled up by the villagers and turned into the settlement of the villagers.

Walking down to the underground passage, which once upon a time, the underwater passage.

This is how the underground passage looks like.

There is a structure lay in ruin on the top of a hill (upper and lower left), which used to be the place where the concubines live. Looking down the hill, we can see a row of white structures lined in the middle of village cottages (upper right). The white structures serve as the ventilating holes for the underground tunnels. The water used to cover until just a few inch below the windows of the white buildings. Then, led by our tour guide, we went underground again. Once we surfaced, we had reached the dock where the sultans used to embark and sail to the hillside far behind (showed by the green arrow).

For Tamansari Water Castle, hiring an English speaking tour guide with RP 20,000 per trip is highly recommended, as some of the places at Taman Sari, such as the seclusive artificial lake and the hidden underground passages are not easy to be found without proper guidance. We missed these two parts of the castle in our first visit, as the site is too big for us to explore by ourselves. We easily found the hidden area of the castle the next day, with a tour guide by our side. 

Both Taman Sari Water Castle and Kraton Palace can be accessed by becak (trishaw), andong (horse carriage), or by taxi. We found a becak driver who was willing to send us with RP 20,000 from Kraton Palace to Taman Sari, then from Taman Sari back to our hotel at Dagen Road.

After we had visited Prambanan, Borobudur, Kraton Palace, and Taman Sari Water Castle, we reserved the rest of our time to roam around Malioboro Road and Ambarrukmo Mall on our last day at Yogya. Follow us now to know more about our story about shopping, food,  and accommodation at Yogya now.



[Yogygakarta Trip Day 2-Kraton Palace and Taman Sari Water Castle]

Yogyakarta Shopping, Food, and Accomodation

Our third day in Yogyakarta- shopping and roaming around the city were our main programs. Our first 2 days itinerary is listed in our first day of our trip. We spent the whole morning roaming around Malioboro Road- starting from Malioboro Mall to Yogyakarta Post Office and BNI Bank. In the afternoon, we took a short tour back to Taman Sari Water Castle to visit the sections that we missed a day before, with a tour guide hired. Then, we went to Ambarrukmo Mall and spent the rest of the afternoon there.

Malioboro Road is the centre of Yogya. It is the most happening area in the city. From small food stalls beside the road to giant fast food chains, from exquisite batik boutiques and cheap souvenirs shops to supermarkets, you name it, you get it. The road is a historical site as well, with many of the buildings along the road were built during the Dutch era.

Shops and stalls with clothes and souvenirs. We can get a Yogya-made cotton t-shirt with RP 30,000 or less. Many of the souvenirs were sold with the price as low as RP 20,000 per piece. From what we could see, there were very less fake (replica) items or pirated products sold in Yogya.

Mirota Batik is the souvenir shop that had been strongly recommended by our friends from Yogya. It is a double-storey air-conditioned store with extravagant numbers of local products. The store is located at far south of Malioboro Road. The store was well decorated (upper left). Lower row showed the bicycle models with RP 65,000 and some of the local spices and traditional medicines.

These photos show the scenes at Malioboro Road. Malioboro Mall is shown on the lower left.

We strolled around Malioboro Road every night during our stay at Yogya. The street transforms into a giant belt of night market after the sunset. There, we experienced what so called an ocean of people in first two nights, on Saturday and Sunday. However, there was a significant reduction of crowd on  Monday night. To our surprise, the locals outnumbered the tourists.
 
There were people playing traditional music and dancing along the street (upper left). Although Malioboro is an one way street, crossing the road is not easy. Endless traffic flows from north to south of the road (upper right). Pasar Sore located at the southern end of the night market (lower left). Andong and becak services can be found along the street. We can always request for a lift back to our hotel.

Tugu Yogyakarta has many names. On some traveller's guide, it is given the name of  De Witt Paal or Tugu Pal Putih, or even Yogya Monument. However, when we mentioned all these names, one by one to our becak driver, he couldn't understand any of the name. No choice, we described how the monument looks like. Suddenly, he understood, and shouted, "Oh, Monument Tugu!" Then, we knew that the monument has another name. The monument had served as the mark for the direction of Mount Merapi from Kraton Palace since 300 years ago. It is located on the other side of the Tugu Train Station, 500 meters away from Malioboro Road.

Ambarrukmo Mall is the largest shopping complex in vicinity. KFC, Bread Story, Pizza Hut, Starbuck, JCo Doughnut, were some of the familiar names that we found in the mall. By taxi, the mall is around 15 minutes away from Malioboro.  From both the outside and the inside, the mall is nothing but another shopping complex (we have numerous in our country). The only different is, that one is located in Yogya. So, we decided to take a walk around. We spent about one hour and a half in the mall. We tried KFC set meal and JCo doughnut there as well. The KFC tasted a bit different than what we have in Malaysia. JCo doughnut on the other hand, more or less the same.

This is the scene what we saw inside Ambarrukmo Mall.

This arch marks the border of the City of Yogyakarta.

Shopping in Malioboro was a good experience for us. Firstly, nobody would approach us and wish to close a sale in the hard way. Secondly, most of the stall owners were nice and polite, and allowed us to touch and examine the goods without buying them. Thirdly, the price for most of the items were fixed, all across the road. For example, no matter how hard we tried, we couldn't get any discount on our t-shirts (unlike many places, where the price will always drop to half when we turned around and pretended to leave). Fourth, the food at the road side was safe for the tourists like us. Last but not least, the street was really safe. Everyone who wish to visit Yogya should put Malioboro Road in the itinerary, especially the night market.

We had the opportunity to try many traditional Yogya food which were recommended by Anggit, our friend who knew Yogyakarta very well. Gudeg, pecel lele, and soto ayam are on the top of our list. Gudeg is the special traditional gravy made by jackfruit and Jawa sugar, which serves with egg, chicken, tofu, and tempeh. Pecel lele is the fried catfish with ulam (fresh vegetable). Soto ayam is the spicy yellow chicken soup.

We could buy gudeg (upper left) and pecel lele (lower left) at almost every food stall in Malioboro. The gudeg with egg and tofu was sold with RP 9,000, while lele was sold with RP 3,000 per fish. Pecel lele is was the dish that closest to ours Malaysian taste. The soto was a bit more spicy than what we have in Malaysia, while gudeg was really something new to us. The food stalls around Malioboro serve many other types of food.

Bak pia is another food that we tried in Yogya (upper left). It is a popular delicacy around Malioboro. Onde-onde and other delicacies tasted good as well (upper right). Another popular soup at Malioboro is ronde- ginger soup with different dessert (lower left). We didn't try ronde as we somehow couldn't accept the way they mix the dessert with ginger soup. In Malioboro, we can see many people sit along the road side to enjoy their food.

Our lunch at All Season Hotel in Yogya. Kampung fried rice (upper left), kampung fried noodle (lower left), soto ayam (upper right) and gudeg with chicken were on our order list. All the food served in that hotel taste good.

Our hotel is one of the tallest buildings in Yogyakarta. The top floor of the hotel is a good location for dinner with beautuful night scenery. The food, excellent.

Night scenery of Yogyakarta from the top floor of our hotel.

We stayed in All Season Hotel Yogya. The hotel is located at Dagen Road, about 400 meters away from Malioboro Road. The hotel surprised us with its outstanding and refreshing design. Many of the furniture are designed with curves and painted in bright colours. In addition to that, helpful staff, quiet environment, delighting food, and comfortable room make the hotel a perfect place for us to rest.

The reception counter of the hotel is different from any design that we had ever seen before (upper left). The pool (upper right) and the garden (lower left) on the top floor of the hotel is a good place to enjoy the night scenery of Yogya. The bedroom and the bathroom is partitioned with glass. The amenities- LCD flat screen, coffee making facilities, free wifi, safe etc.

Can you believe that these are in fact the chairs in the lobby?

Find a place to stay in Yogya won't be a difficult task. There are more than 20 hotels and rest houses along Dagen Road itself. So, please make sure that you get somewhere to stay close to Malioboro Road so that you can access to the heart of Yogya easily. Yogya is a good place for a short vacation. As it is the most developed city in vicinity of both Prambanan and Borobudur, it is definately a strategic city to stay for archaeology lovers. Please go to the first day of our trip for our itinarary of Yogyakarta trip.

We would like to take this opportunity to thank our friend Anggit again for her invaluable information, which had helped us to make a few critical decisions. Besides, we found some useful information at www.borobudurpark.com and Wiki travel on Borobudur as well.

To know more about other attractions in Indonesia, please visit our blog about Our Bali Trip on 2009.Or follow us to All Our Destination here.



[Yogyakarta-Food, Shopping, and Accomodation] [All Our Destinations]

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

A Great Experience with MASWING

We were so close to it, but yet missed our first chance to fly with MASWING last December. Out of a blue change in our itinerary. However, we grabbed our first experience flying in this twin engines 68 seaters in January 2012, from Sibu to Kota Kinabalu. 90 minutes in the air, we crossed the territory of Bintulu, Miri, Brunei, and Labuan, before we landed at Kota Kinabalu. It was an unexpectedly enjoyable trip.

Far back in 1990s, our experience with twin propellers Forker Friendship was terrible. Rocky, hot and sweaty, narrow and suffocating cabin, and the list went on. Time passed and things changed. Now, the ATR 72-500 aircraft offers a far much better experience. Although it is propeller-powered, the aircraft is nevertheless less noisy, relatively stable (thanks to the good weather), wider cabin, nice and sweet stewardess (as consistence as other Malaysia Airlines services), and above all, very comfy seats, which fit well to our average Asian sitting posture. The air conditioning system worked well and it was cooling in the craft (although it was quite warm in the first five minutes after boarding).

17 thousands above the sea level, we were served with delighting refreshment, followed by a cup of tea. While munching our sandwich, we enjoyed a 30 minutes videos presentation, mostly focused on the tourism and information about Sarawak and Sabah.

Video presentation is the last thing to expect in this twin propellers powered flight.

Our refreshment on the aircraft (upper row). Cannot be considered spacious, but there is definitely enough room to stretch.

Beautiful? Sweet? The definition might be varied. However, the stewardess defined herself with good service.

The scene 17 thousands above the sea level.

Kota Kinabalu can be clearly seen in this steady aerial view.

We were unexpectedly greeted by two cuties a few minutes before the captain announced the descending.

Although it is a domestic airline, providing flights connecting cities and towns within Sabah and Sarawak, with a very humble-looking fleet, MASWING is indeed a world class airline. No doubt, we will fly with the airline again, and again.

For more information about our trip in Sabah and Sarawak, please go to All Our Destinations. More stories about Kota Kinabalu and Sibu are available at: