Saturday, May 12, 2012

Yogyakarta Trip Day 2 - Borobudur

Day 2 in Yogyakarta, 7:15 am, we set out from our hotel, going to Candi Borobudur by car. We rent the car with driver with RP 350,000 for 5 hours from Nusantara Tour and Travel (email: ticdom-jogja@nusatovel.com). Borobudur is located in the middle of Jawa Province, 42 km north west of Jogya. The whole journey to Borobudur took around one hour. The English speaking driver, Febri was very informative. We gained many valuable information from him (contact him by email at febri.transporter@yahoo.com). Through Febri, we enter the park with RP 125,000, instead of normal RP135,000, the discount given by the park to travel agencies.

We hired a park tour guide, Jamel, with RP 75,000 for one hour and a half. He is a very experienced tour guide with fantastic English. He brought us through strategic photographing locations, told us the legends of the park, the history of the Borobudur, even the restoration process of the temple, which includes the weakness and the improvement of the restoration process. According to Jamel, his father and elder brother were involved in the restoration of the temple many years ago.


The sign of Taman Wisata Candi Borobudur or "Borobudur Temple Tourism Park" marks the destination of our one hour travel by car (upper left). The tickets for the park were bought from the park office (upper right). In the international visitors' office, free coffee, tea, and mineral water were served (lower left). Our English speaking tour guide, Jamal, is very informative. His excellent communication delighted our trip as well.

Borobudur is huge. We were astonished by its size even with extensive mental expectation. The colossal Borobudur is a square building, with the base of 120 square meter. It has 9 levels (6 lower square levels and 3 top circular levels), with the uppermost stone raises 35 m above the ground (approx. height of 11-storey building). UNESCO estimated a sum of 60,000 cube meter of stones had been used to build this temple, and no doubt, it is the biggest built-in-one-piece religious monument in the world. Completed around 750-850 AD by the kings of Sailendra Dynasty, Borobudur was built 300 years earlier than Angkor Wat. 

Candi Borobudur shows its prominency to us, even we were still hundreds of meters away from it (lower). When we turned back, the active Mount Merapi which lays distance away can clearly be seen (these two photos were taken from a same location).

Our group photo at the small stone signage stating that this is a UNESCO Heritage Site.

After helping us with our group photo at the UNESCO's sign, Jamal brought us to the far left off the main route. The reason he said, "This is a good location to take photo...". We agreed.

Stairs... the journey to the world heritage always start with climbing something...

We reached at the foot of Candi Borobudur at around 9:15 am. There were not many visitors there yet.

What amazed us the most, the whole temple in fact tells the story of Buddha. The whole built-in-one-piece temple alludes a gigantic stupa and represents the Buddism cosmology and nature of mind. The 9 levels of the temple are catagorized into three different divisions- the first base level represents Kamadhatu (the world of desire), followed by 5 levels of Rupadhatu (the world of forms), and on the top of Rupadhatu, 3 levels of Arupadhatu (the formless world). The stories of these three worlds are depicted on the bas-relief on each of the levels. To read these stories in right direction, we need to enter the temple through the east gate (the main gate), and start from left to right (clockwise direction).

First level of the temple with Kamadhatu, depicting the consequences of having few children and having many children (upper left). The family with few children lives in peace, while the family with many children suffers. The gossips and talking bad things about the good people is another feature in Kamadhatu (lower left). The photo on the upper right shows the traditional treatment of massage. All the bas-relief of the lowest level are covered by the additional basement of bricks, which is believed to be the way to stabilize the temple. 

Second level of the temple is decorated with the bas-relief of Rupadhatu- the journey of Siddhartha Gautama to become a Buddha is extensively told (upper row). Besides, the Buddha in the form of animals can be found at the second level of the temple.

Buddha statues with different poses have their distinct symbollic meanings. The one at the upper left shows Dhyana mudra, a symbolic of concentration and meditation. The galleries along the walkway of the temple tell us many stories about Buddha (upper right). The cannon-like structure at lower left used to be the drainage system of the temple. The whole Candi Borobudur was built without using any nails. The interlocking bricks hold the integrity of the temple.

Finally, we reached the level of Arupadhatu- the world of formless (haha). The spade stupas represent the unstability, the square stupas represent the stability, while the big stupa at the centre of the temple represents the wholeness or the perfectness in Arupadhatu.

According to our park tour guide, Jamal, the uniquess of the statues of Buddha in Borobudur is, all of them are in sitting of medidating position. None of them are in standing, or reclining position, like what we can see in other places in Asia. Besides, Borobudur contains no relics of Buddha. So, the builders put the statues of Buddha in the stupas with see-through holes. The central stupa contains no hole, and it is empty. The whole Candi Borobudur has no roof on top of it, showing the possibility that the temple is not built as a house of worship, but as an open-book for the Buddhists. The pilgrims and the monks will walk through the galleries of bas-reliefs to learn how to enter the world of Arupadhatu.

One of sitting Buddha statues in the uncovered stupa. The stupa was designed in such a way so that the believers can put in the candles or flowers. However, the candles and flowers are banned nowadays to preserve the temple.

This is one of the scene that we saw from the top level of Borobudur.

2010 Mount Merapi eruptions left a thick layer of highly corrosive volcano ashes on Borobudur, where the clean up work done by UNESCO later gulped USD 3 millions and the temple partially closed down for more than one year. We heard that the upper part of the temple was re-opened in November 2011, so, quickly, a tour to the temple arranged. Our advice, visit this World Heritage as soon as you can, while you have the chance to see it standing in one piece, before the next eruption occurs.

The active Merapi can be seen clearly from Borobudur (the right peak). On the left, is its sleeping brother, Mount Merbabu. In fact, there's another sleeping volcano on the western side of Borobudur- Mount Sumbing. We wonder why the rulers of Sailendra had chosen such a place to built their wonder. 

We went up to the temple from the east, and came down from the west. This is our photo with our tour guide, Jamal at the western side of Borobudur.

We made brief stops at Candi Pawon, Candi Mendut, and a silver factory on our way back from Borobudur to Yogya.

Candi Pawon and Candi Mendut are both small candi. These two temples form a straight line with Candi Borobudur to the East. Both of the temples are located just beside the main road between Borobudur and Yogyakarta. 

Borobudur is definitely a must visit site for all archaeology lovers. It is a sacred site for Buddhists as well. So, we need to wear sarung, or a batik cloth that wraps around the waist. The batik cloth is provided free of charge at the ticket counter. However, we need to return the sarung once we had completed our trip. There are many promoters selling poscards, handicrafts, and other souvenirs all around the site before the entrance to the international visitors office, on our way up to Borobudur, and on our way back to the office. The promoters were so call highly motivated (we hope you know what that means). However, they still knew when to leave us- when we rejected them politely, but firm.

The locals selling all sorts of products. We didn't buy any, as one of our drivers advised that we could in fact buy anything that we wish to get from Malioboro with fair price.

Lucky for us to reach the temple early around 8:30 am. There was less crowd at that time and we still managed to get some nice photos. After 10 am, the crowd make us almost impossible to take a good picture without any homo sapien in it. However, if you are patient enough to wait for the right moment under the hot sun, you will still get some nice photos. The photo with the sitting Buddha inside the stupa was taken with more than 5 minutes of waiting and trying.

The crowd on the temple. We need to line up in order to move from a level to another (right).

Be noted that Candi Borobudur is dark in colour, which absorb heat quickly. Our advice is, be early. Sufficient drinking water is important to keep us hydrated. We can get the mineral water from the international visitors office, free of charge. A hat or a small umbrella is helpful. Sport shoes or comfortable footwear is essential. A experienced tour guide is highly recommended (such as Jamal). The tour guide is proven to be helpful to us to learn much information about the temple- location, history, legends, facts, restoration, and destruction, and many more.

We stayed at Borobudur for nearly 3 hours. We returned to Yogya and our driver dropped us at Kraton Palace. Follow us to Kraton Palace and Taman Sari Water Castle now.



[Yogyakarta Trip Day 1-Prambanan] [Yogyakarta Trip Day 2-Borobudur] 

Yogyakarta Trip Day 2 - Kraton Palace and Taman Sari Water Castle

Prambanan and Borobudur are the names that always been mentioned with Yogyakarta. However, both of the temples are actually not located in the province of Yogya, but in Central Jawa. Our second day in Yogya, after spending 3 hours visiting Candi Borobudur in the morning, we went back to Yogya to visit two of the most historical sites within the city- Kraton Palace (or Karaton Ngayogyakarta by the locals) and Taman Sari Water Castle.

Kraton Palace was built in 1790. It is the symbol of the king and the sultanate of Yogyakarta, successor of Sultanate of Mataram. The palace was built facing Mount Merapi, with Tugu Monument stands in line between them. We read in an article, saying that the monument was served as a mark for the sultan to observe the condition of the volcano in early days. After the independence of Indonesia in 1949, Yogyakarta has been given the autonomous in administration under the king and formed the Special Region of Yogyakarta. The Palace is located at the southern end of Malioboro Road, and it is quite easy to be reached (20 minutes by foot from Dagen Road). The entrance fee is RP 15,000 (tour guide is included) with additional RP 1000 for our camera. The palace is open to public from 8 am - 2 pm daily. The palace is closed to public one hour earlier on Friday.

Once we got our tickets checked, we went into the compound of Kraton Palace. The palace is dominated by Jawanese architecture, art and design, with a blend of Hinduism and Islamic influences. This white in the photo gate leads to the main palace compound. There are two guardian statues at the side of the gate, the left one is guarding the good events while the right, bad events.

There is a theater at the right side of the white gate, with traditional dance and Royal Gamelan Musicians on shows. That was the first time for us to see a full set of Gamelan. Gamelan is an assemble of traditional musical instruments originated from Jawa.

After we entered the white gate, we could see the stage of modern music (upper left) on the left, where the modern music players perform in royal occasions. Behind the stage is the house of the musicians (lower left). To the right is sultan's residence (upper right). Sultan is in his residence if the lamps in front of the residence are turned on. We grabbed an opportunity to take photo with one of the palace's guards. The palace guards are still wearing the traditional costumes and equipped with keris (traditional Malay dagger), and walk in bare foot.

Many of the equipments which were used in olden days are still displayed. The large wooden box on upper left used to be the place for sultan to store his puppets for wayang-kulit show. The big drum on upper right was used to remind sultan about the time to pray. The small litters (or sedan-chairs) on lower left were the vehicles to carry the dowry during royal marriage. Our English speaking guide was super friendly. She even showed us how the fire alarm was sound during the olden days.

The golden museum is one for the many buildings that showcases the collection of sultans, built by one of the sultans of Yogya to commemorate his own "golden era". This dark wooden building is eye-catching in the middle of white buildings.

Many antiques are displayed in the palace. One of them is the light bulbs used many years ago in the palace (left). 300 years old gamelan which is played only during Prophet Muhammad's Birthday (upper right) and the cameras used by the sultans are displayed as well.
With the mind set of how a "palace" should look like (such as the sultanate palaces in Malaysia), the modesty of Kraton Palace impressed us in a different way- that's why the people here love their sultan very much- live an ordinary life.

Taman Sari (or Tamansari) Water Castle is situated inside Kraton compound. The castle used to be the royal garden of the sultanate. Built around 1750, the castle is believed to be an area for the former kings to rest, meditate, defence, and even to escape from the enemies. The castle is believed to be a place for the kings to accommodate their concubines.The entrance fee is RP 7000 (RM 2.50 or less than USD 0.80), with additional RP 1000 for camera. The castle is opened to visitors 9 am - 3:30 pm daily.

Taman Sari consists of four different area - the first in the middle is a large bathing area with 2 pools, to the west is an artificial lake (the water has been drained out), smaller bathing pool for the sultan at the east, and a compound for royal function at the south (just after the entrance).

According to our tour guide, most of the area of Taman Sari have been occupied by the village folks, whom many of them are working for Kraton. However, in future, all the village folks will have to move out of the area in order to give Taman Sari a place on the list of World Heritage Site.

The current entrance of Taman Sari Water Castle was originally the back door of the castle. The main entrance was closed as it is not easy to be reached by visitors.

The entrance lead us into compound, where the sultans used to conduct their royal ceremony there. The small pavilions were once used as the performing stages for the musicians.

This is the picturesque scene that we saw at the center of the water castle. This is the scene that appears on many postcards. The tower used to be the location where the sultans looked for the "right one" to spend a night with.
Photo taken with LS's parents by the pool, where the concubines of the sultans used to swim inside.

Going in deeper and this is what we saw- the main entrance of the water castle. The other side of the wall has been fully occupied by the village folks. This closed entrance marks the furthest point that we could access in this castle. Lead by our tour guide, we turned right to visit the artificial lake and the underground passages.

This is one of the entrances to the underground passage. The artificial lake has been filled up by the villagers and turned into the settlement of the villagers.

Walking down to the underground passage, which once upon a time, the underwater passage.

This is how the underground passage looks like.

There is a structure lay in ruin on the top of a hill (upper and lower left), which used to be the place where the concubines live. Looking down the hill, we can see a row of white structures lined in the middle of village cottages (upper right). The white structures serve as the ventilating holes for the underground tunnels. The water used to cover until just a few inch below the windows of the white buildings. Then, led by our tour guide, we went underground again. Once we surfaced, we had reached the dock where the sultans used to embark and sail to the hillside far behind (showed by the green arrow).

For Tamansari Water Castle, hiring an English speaking tour guide with RP 20,000 per trip is highly recommended, as some of the places at Taman Sari, such as the seclusive artificial lake and the hidden underground passages are not easy to be found without proper guidance. We missed these two parts of the castle in our first visit, as the site is too big for us to explore by ourselves. We easily found the hidden area of the castle the next day, with a tour guide by our side. 

Both Taman Sari Water Castle and Kraton Palace can be accessed by becak (trishaw), andong (horse carriage), or by taxi. We found a becak driver who was willing to send us with RP 20,000 from Kraton Palace to Taman Sari, then from Taman Sari back to our hotel at Dagen Road.

After we had visited Prambanan, Borobudur, Kraton Palace, and Taman Sari Water Castle, we reserved the rest of our time to roam around Malioboro Road and Ambarrukmo Mall on our last day at Yogya. Follow us now to know more about our story about shopping, food,  and accommodation at Yogya now.



[Yogygakarta Trip Day 2-Kraton Palace and Taman Sari Water Castle]

Yogyakarta Shopping, Food, and Accomodation

Our third day in Yogyakarta- shopping and roaming around the city were our main programs. Our first 2 days itinerary is listed in our first day of our trip. We spent the whole morning roaming around Malioboro Road- starting from Malioboro Mall to Yogyakarta Post Office and BNI Bank. In the afternoon, we took a short tour back to Taman Sari Water Castle to visit the sections that we missed a day before, with a tour guide hired. Then, we went to Ambarrukmo Mall and spent the rest of the afternoon there.

Malioboro Road is the centre of Yogya. It is the most happening area in the city. From small food stalls beside the road to giant fast food chains, from exquisite batik boutiques and cheap souvenirs shops to supermarkets, you name it, you get it. The road is a historical site as well, with many of the buildings along the road were built during the Dutch era.

Shops and stalls with clothes and souvenirs. We can get a Yogya-made cotton t-shirt with RP 30,000 or less. Many of the souvenirs were sold with the price as low as RP 20,000 per piece. From what we could see, there were very less fake (replica) items or pirated products sold in Yogya.

Mirota Batik is the souvenir shop that had been strongly recommended by our friends from Yogya. It is a double-storey air-conditioned store with extravagant numbers of local products. The store is located at far south of Malioboro Road. The store was well decorated (upper left). Lower row showed the bicycle models with RP 65,000 and some of the local spices and traditional medicines.

These photos show the scenes at Malioboro Road. Malioboro Mall is shown on the lower left.

We strolled around Malioboro Road every night during our stay at Yogya. The street transforms into a giant belt of night market after the sunset. There, we experienced what so called an ocean of people in first two nights, on Saturday and Sunday. However, there was a significant reduction of crowd on  Monday night. To our surprise, the locals outnumbered the tourists.
 
There were people playing traditional music and dancing along the street (upper left). Although Malioboro is an one way street, crossing the road is not easy. Endless traffic flows from north to south of the road (upper right). Pasar Sore located at the southern end of the night market (lower left). Andong and becak services can be found along the street. We can always request for a lift back to our hotel.

Tugu Yogyakarta has many names. On some traveller's guide, it is given the name of  De Witt Paal or Tugu Pal Putih, or even Yogya Monument. However, when we mentioned all these names, one by one to our becak driver, he couldn't understand any of the name. No choice, we described how the monument looks like. Suddenly, he understood, and shouted, "Oh, Monument Tugu!" Then, we knew that the monument has another name. The monument had served as the mark for the direction of Mount Merapi from Kraton Palace since 300 years ago. It is located on the other side of the Tugu Train Station, 500 meters away from Malioboro Road.

Ambarrukmo Mall is the largest shopping complex in vicinity. KFC, Bread Story, Pizza Hut, Starbuck, JCo Doughnut, were some of the familiar names that we found in the mall. By taxi, the mall is around 15 minutes away from Malioboro.  From both the outside and the inside, the mall is nothing but another shopping complex (we have numerous in our country). The only different is, that one is located in Yogya. So, we decided to take a walk around. We spent about one hour and a half in the mall. We tried KFC set meal and JCo doughnut there as well. The KFC tasted a bit different than what we have in Malaysia. JCo doughnut on the other hand, more or less the same.

This is the scene what we saw inside Ambarrukmo Mall.

This arch marks the border of the City of Yogyakarta.

Shopping in Malioboro was a good experience for us. Firstly, nobody would approach us and wish to close a sale in the hard way. Secondly, most of the stall owners were nice and polite, and allowed us to touch and examine the goods without buying them. Thirdly, the price for most of the items were fixed, all across the road. For example, no matter how hard we tried, we couldn't get any discount on our t-shirts (unlike many places, where the price will always drop to half when we turned around and pretended to leave). Fourth, the food at the road side was safe for the tourists like us. Last but not least, the street was really safe. Everyone who wish to visit Yogya should put Malioboro Road in the itinerary, especially the night market.

We had the opportunity to try many traditional Yogya food which were recommended by Anggit, our friend who knew Yogyakarta very well. Gudeg, pecel lele, and soto ayam are on the top of our list. Gudeg is the special traditional gravy made by jackfruit and Jawa sugar, which serves with egg, chicken, tofu, and tempeh. Pecel lele is the fried catfish with ulam (fresh vegetable). Soto ayam is the spicy yellow chicken soup.

We could buy gudeg (upper left) and pecel lele (lower left) at almost every food stall in Malioboro. The gudeg with egg and tofu was sold with RP 9,000, while lele was sold with RP 3,000 per fish. Pecel lele is was the dish that closest to ours Malaysian taste. The soto was a bit more spicy than what we have in Malaysia, while gudeg was really something new to us. The food stalls around Malioboro serve many other types of food.

Bak pia is another food that we tried in Yogya (upper left). It is a popular delicacy around Malioboro. Onde-onde and other delicacies tasted good as well (upper right). Another popular soup at Malioboro is ronde- ginger soup with different dessert (lower left). We didn't try ronde as we somehow couldn't accept the way they mix the dessert with ginger soup. In Malioboro, we can see many people sit along the road side to enjoy their food.

Our lunch at All Season Hotel in Yogya. Kampung fried rice (upper left), kampung fried noodle (lower left), soto ayam (upper right) and gudeg with chicken were on our order list. All the food served in that hotel taste good.

Our hotel is one of the tallest buildings in Yogyakarta. The top floor of the hotel is a good location for dinner with beautuful night scenery. The food, excellent.

Night scenery of Yogyakarta from the top floor of our hotel.

We stayed in All Season Hotel Yogya. The hotel is located at Dagen Road, about 400 meters away from Malioboro Road. The hotel surprised us with its outstanding and refreshing design. Many of the furniture are designed with curves and painted in bright colours. In addition to that, helpful staff, quiet environment, delighting food, and comfortable room make the hotel a perfect place for us to rest.

The reception counter of the hotel is different from any design that we had ever seen before (upper left). The pool (upper right) and the garden (lower left) on the top floor of the hotel is a good place to enjoy the night scenery of Yogya. The bedroom and the bathroom is partitioned with glass. The amenities- LCD flat screen, coffee making facilities, free wifi, safe etc.

Can you believe that these are in fact the chairs in the lobby?

Find a place to stay in Yogya won't be a difficult task. There are more than 20 hotels and rest houses along Dagen Road itself. So, please make sure that you get somewhere to stay close to Malioboro Road so that you can access to the heart of Yogya easily. Yogya is a good place for a short vacation. As it is the most developed city in vicinity of both Prambanan and Borobudur, it is definately a strategic city to stay for archaeology lovers. Please go to the first day of our trip for our itinarary of Yogyakarta trip.

We would like to take this opportunity to thank our friend Anggit again for her invaluable information, which had helped us to make a few critical decisions. Besides, we found some useful information at www.borobudurpark.com and Wiki travel on Borobudur as well.

To know more about other attractions in Indonesia, please visit our blog about Our Bali Trip on 2009.Or follow us to All Our Destination here.



[Yogyakarta-Food, Shopping, and Accomodation] [All Our Destinations]