Showing posts with label Hanoi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hanoi. Show all posts

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Getting Around Hanoi

People
Hanoi local people are friendly, helpful, but English is not widely used. Most people could understand very basic English. We experienced difficulty in communicating with some of the locals, struggling to find the best word, or to be more accurate, the best way to express ourselves. Lucky for us, HanoiKids had offered invaluable help during our trip around Hanoi. Our sharing about HanoiKids is available here.

Just a little bit more about HanoiKids, they are a group of local universities' students volunteered to be tour guides in Hanoi. They are very helpful and dedicated ambassadors. HanoiKids offer their service totally free of charge.

The information about HanoiKids is available on their official website at hanoikids.org. Please take note that there are several other websites providing misleading information about Hanoikids, e.g. hanoikids.com and hanoifreewalkingtours.com. [This paragraph is added as requested by HanoiKids' member]

We found this fruit hawker using a very traditional scale to weight the plums for us (upper left). People in Hanoi are less sensitive to the camera, and have no issue posing for a total stranger (upper right). We saw a group of creative youth taking their group photo with their traditional costume in front of Royal Citadel (lower right). Have a sit at the road side and enjoy the nice food is a part of their live.

Place to Stay
Thirty-six streets all together. Highly crowded. pedestrians, motorbikes, bicycles, and cars are flooding the narrow streets. That's the Old Quarter area in Hanoi, that is a great place for the tourists like us to stay.

Different types of shops operate to cater the needs of locals, and support the tourism. Hotels are many. We stayed in Hanoi Old Centre Hotel at Hang Hanh Street. It is located in the heart of Old Quarter, about 50 meters away from Hoam Kiem Lake. We found other six hotels down the street of 50 meters. More were sighted further away.

Be noted that many of these small hotels are actually a part of the shop lots, due to the lack of space for the standalone building. Finding a place to stay in Old Quarter area should not be a big problem, while staying somewhere near Hoan Kiem Lake might be a good idea. Switching from one hotel to another is possible, as the choices are many. We were lucky to stay in Hanoi Old Centre Hotel. The hotel offered good service with remarkable low rate.

Hanoi Old Centre Hotel from the outside (upper left), the lobby (upper right), and the room for two (lower right). Free snacks and drinks were complementary.

At least six other small hotels are available down this street.

Shopping
Be noted that the weekend night market (Friday, Saturday, and Sunday night) is held from Dong Xuan Road to Hang Dao Road. It is located 50 meters away from our hotel, north of Hoan Kiem Lake. Shops around Old Quarter are categorized based on the location. Coincidence or not, shops located on the same street tend to sell same types of items, e.g. shoes at Lo Su and clothes at Hang Gai. Shops and hawkers selling food are scattered all around Old Quarter.

Based on our experience, the price of the items could be haggled, but not too much. We tried to press for 50% discount on a pair of sandals and 90% on a wallet, ended with disagreements. But we got 20% of discount on the souvenirs (fridge magnets and hand painted bookmarks) at the night market, much lower than the offer from the shops at Hang Trong Road. We bought 5 pairs of sport socks with 60k Dong (RM8.5), good quality with cheap price. Kelly and Livien bought a few clothes with good bargained price as well. Well, we would say that haggling within 20% is possible. To go beyond that, you might need to haggle more vigorously than us.

By the way, the night market at Old Quarter is lack in variety, dominated by clothes made by neighbouring countries. Some low quality fake items bearing well-known brands are available as well. Food was the greatest attraction to us there.

Night market at Old Quarter. Do expect a big crowd at the market.

Shoes on sale. The whole street is full of shoes.

Searching for something to bring back home at a souvenir shop.

Traffic and Transportation
The traffic is in total anarchy, but we adapted to it well, as we had experienced that before in several other places. Motorbikes are the king of the road. They are everywhere, driving in all direction without following the signage, and above all, many with no helmets on their head.

Be careful that not all the drivers are following the traffic lights. Many of them charge on green and never stop on red. The pedestrian crossing area is no different than any other places on the road. In case it is your first time experiencing this type of traffic condition, we would advise that a few demonstration from the others (the locals) might be necessary before you move on with you first crossing. What amused us was seeing a dog following the flock in crossing the road, twice. Too bad we didn't manage to capture the amusing moment.

We travel by foot for the places nearby our hotel, while taking taxi to access further places. Taxi is the most convenient mean to go around Hanoi, aplenty, cheap, and many of them are run by meter (Taxi Group and Mai Linh Group). A trip by trishaw or rent a bike can be a good idea too. During our visit, Hanoi was covered by haze, which effectively blocked much of the sunlight. We lost a clear blue sky, but earned more cooling and comfortable temperature to walk around by foot.

Motorbikes are everywhere. Bike rental is widely available. We saw trishaws roaming around Old Quarter area. However, we didn't really go for a ride.

Crossing this street here is the final exam for road crossing in Hanoi. Of course, not in the middle of the day, but during the opening hours of the night market.

Currency and Exchange
Believe it or not, get US Dollar from Malaysia and exchange the money to Vietnamese Dong at Old Hanoi Centre Hotel gave us the best rate, better than exchanging MY Ringgit to Dong directly in our country. Well, why not contact our hotel in Hanoi today for the currency exchange rate?

Most of the pricing are listed in Vietnamese Dong. We will be on the losing side if we insist to use US Dollar. Taking the taxi for example, from Women's Museum to St. Joseph Cathedral. The fare was around 18,000 Dong, or about USD 0.85. If we pay with US Dollar, the minimum payment is USD 1.

Streets
As far as we had explored, the streets around Old Quarter are safe, day and night. We didn't feel threatened nor uncomfortable on the street. In fact, the streets were quite clean during our visit. Surprisingly, we didn't see any beggar in our entire trip. That's rare for a big city like Hanoi.


We saw many interesting things on the street- tangling cables, motorbikes with all sorts of crazy loads (dogs, piglets, chicken, huge number of eggs, fruits etc.), and hawkers with formal attires are a few of them. Many travel agencies are available just a few steps away from hotels.

A small lane during the day time.

This is a scene of another street at night.

Food and Drink
Nobody will get starved in Hanoi. Food are everywhere. Well, it will be more fun if you are comfortable with the street food. Beef noodle, Vietnam coffee, and spring roll are highly recommended. Read our post about Hanoi's food here.

Please follow the links below for more about our experience in Hanoi and Ha Long Bay. Our next destination, Yangon and Bagan in Myanmar.

Note: We would like to thank HanoiKids's member to check on the information provided on this post.  



Sunday, May 5, 2013

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Places Nearby

Second day in Hanoi. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum was our first stop, followed by the Presidential Palace and the stilt house in Hanoi Botanical Garden. Then, we visited One Pillar Pagoda, Temple of Literature, and eventually, Hanoi Royal Citadel.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Presidential Palace, the stilt house, and One Pillar Pagoda are nearby to each other. We visited all these places together. Then, we took taxi to Temple of Literature and Hanoi Royal Citadel. We missed Ho Chi Minh Museum and Military Museum, as both museums were closed on Fridays (as well as on Mondays). Ho Chi Minh Museum is near to the mausoleum, while Military Museum is about 200 meters away from the citadel.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum with a large square in front of it. We couldn't go inside as the mausoleum was closed on Fridays.

A closer view of the mausoleum. There are security personnel that keep the tourists away from getting too near to it. There was nothing interesting from the outside. We just stopped by for a while to take photos. Then, we continued our tour to the Presidential Palace nearby.

Hanoi Presidential Palace was built in 1906 for French Governor-General of Indochina. Now, the palace is used for diplomatic purposes, and it is closed to tourists. This building is located within the botanical garden, which the entry is closed at 11:00 - 1:30 pm. The garden is opened until 11 am only on Fridays and Mondays. The entrance fee is 20,000d per person (RM3.10/ USD1).

Turning left from Presidential Palace, we found the quarter for the workers. It was once the residence of Ho Chi Minh. The cars and living area of Ho Chi Minh were displayed. Ho Chi Minh refused to live in Presidential Palace as it was a symbol of colonization. He stayed in the quarter until he moved into the stilt house in 1958.

The stilt house was the place where Ho Chi Minh stayed until he died in 1969. This wooden house is very simple. Perhaps, too simple to accommodate a national leader.


One Pillar Pagoda stands on one pillar. However, that is a temple that standing on the pillar, rather than a pagoda. Built in 1049, the pagoda which stands like a lotus in a peaceful pond is not the original structure anymore. The pagoda attracts many local believers. The entrance is free. The pagoda is located next to Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.

Our next stop, the Temple of Literature. Four pillars with traditional Chinese characters mark the entrance of the temple. We paid 20,000d per person for the entrance fee. We spent about one hour in the temple.

The Temple of Literature is formerly the first national university in Vietnam. Built in 1070 AD, the temple was dedicated to Confucius. From the architecture and design, it can be easily mistaken as a Chinese temple. It has enormously big compound with four sections. Each section can be accessed through a unique entrance. The white structure on the left is the first entrance, while the second entrance is shown on the right.

The third entrance is beautifully designed (left). The stone tortoise in the middle shows the name of successful scholars graduated from China. These stone tortoises which were built between 1484 - 1780, have been recognized by UNESCO as Documentary Heritage of the World. The statue of crane and tortoise in the temple is a symbol of harmony and longevity (right). One of our Vietnamese friends told us that this statue also represents the spirit of helping each other. In flooding season, the crane will rest on the back of the turtle. In dry season, the crane will bring the turtle to the places with sufficient water. 

Traditional music performance in the temple. You can enjoy the music with a little donation. During our tour, we saw many university students were taking their graduation photos within the compound of this temple.

After lunch, we visited Hanoi Royal Citadel. Built in 1010, the citadel served as the center of Thang Long capital during 11th - 18th centuries. The south gate in this photo was the entrance to the forbidden city, where the King and the Royalty lived. The citadel was deserted when the capital of Vietnam was moved to Hue City. The citadel has been listed as the 900th UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012.

From the remaining structure, we could see that the city was once guarded by very tall and thick walls. 30,000d was the price that we paid per person to enter the gate of the forbidden city. The compound of the citadel is big, with a few museums located within it. The artifacts found within the area of the citadel, some old photos of Hanoi, and the information about the lifestyle of Vietnamese were displayed in these museums. Although we pushed ourselves to be hurry, still we took about one hour to walk through the museums. We spent two hours in the citadel. Driven by exhaustion, we left some part of the citadel unexplored.

Stone dragons at the ruin of Kinh Thien Palace (upper left). The dragons guard the stairs since 600 years ago. Other photos show the items exhibited in the museums.

The Hanoi Flag Tower can be clearly seen from the second level of the citadel.



The command center of North Vietnamese Army during the Vietnam War was built within the compound of the citadel. Please make sure that you explore the underground part of the command center.

The side door of the citadel. With the help from the members of HanoiKids, we managed to get a taxi in a short time from this side door to go back to our hotel.

Vietnam War Museum is closed on Fridays and Mondays. We missed the opportunity to go into the museum. So, we just took some photos from the outside. This old war machine is displayed at the left flank outside the museum.

The Temple of Literature and Hanoi Royal Citadel are the sites that every visitor to Hanoi should not miss. These sites showed us how Hanoi was some 1000 years ago. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Presidential Palace, and the stilt house brought us back to the age of colonization and how Vietnamese fought for their independence, and united their country. These places are really worth a visit.

During our tour, we used taxi frequently, as the taxi fare in Hanoi was quite cheap. The taxi run by meter, with the initial fee of 14,000d. Local English speaking tour guide is essential as majority of the people in Hanoi cannot understand English. We were lucky to have members from HanoiKids moving around with us. They were really helpful.

We went to Ha Long Bay on our third day in Vietnam. The bay is a true wonder of the World. We will bring our experience in Ha Long Bay next.


Thursday, May 2, 2013

Exploring Hanoi Old Quarter

We visited Hanoi in late April. From Noi Bai International Airport, we took more than one hour to reach our our hotel- Hanoi Old Centre Hotel. The hotel is located at the heart of Old Quarter, one of the most prominent tourism area in Hanoi. Old Quarter is believed to be inhabitated by Vietnamese some 1000 years ago, starting from the time of King Ly Thai.

Of course, we can't expect that the streets remained the same as 1000 years ago. Now, it is a township with concrete buildings and narrow streets. However, a few very old historical relics survived as well. In a round trip, we visited Ngoc Son Temple, Thap Rua (Turtle Tower), the Opera House, Vietnamese Women's Museum, St. Joseph Cathedral, and Ly Quoc Su Pagoda.These places are nearby Hoan Kiem Lake. Starting at 2 pm, the tour took about 3 hours.


Hoan Kiem Lake (or Guam) is in the heart of Hanoi Old Quarter. It looks like a peaceful oasis in the middle of traffic sandstorm. Turtle Tower medidates on a patch of dry land in the lake (upper left). The surrounding area is well landscaped with people resting, relaxing, jogging, or even drawing beside the lake. The legend of Hoan Kiem Lake and the history of Turtle Tower is available at hanoi.vietnamplus.vn. One of my Vietnamese friends stated that Turtle Tower is the most symbolic monument in Hanoi. If that is true, then, Hoan Kiem is definitely a must visit site in Hanoi.

Turtle Tower was built in 1886 as a tomb. Now, it serves as a tower to honour the magic turtle which is guarding Le Loi's sword. The legend told that King Le Loi crushed mighty Chinese army with the magic sword originated from the sea. A magic turtle later claimed back the sword from him. Some believed that the sword is still being kept in the lake (Hoan Kiem, 还剑 means returning the sword).


Ngoc Son Temple is located on the northern island of Hoan Kiem Lake. The temple is connected by a wooden bridge (upper left). The entrance fee of 20,000d per person was collected at the entrance (upper right). Built in 18th century, the temple has strong Chinese influence (lower left).The name Ngoc Son means 玉山 in Mandarin, or Jade Mountain. A 6-feet-long giant turtle specimen is displayed in the temple. The giant turtles are still populated in Hoan Kiem Lake. As the lake endures heavy pollution, more conservation work have to be done to keep the turtle happy and far from extinction.

The legend of Hoan Kiem is carved on the entrance of Ngoc Son Temple.

Panoramic view of Ngoc Son Temple. The temple attracts many foreign and local visitors.

Hanoi Opera House is located at the southeast of Hoan Kiem Lake. We found the building is nothing but a vivid structure with rich French Colonial Architecture. Well, we left the building after taking a group photo there. If you wish to catch some performances there, you can visit Official Site of the opera house.

Our next stop, Vietnamese Women Museum, 500 meters away from Hanoi Opera House. The museum is housed in a contemporary white building. It is catchy in the middle of beige colonial themed street. The entrance fee was 30,000d per person. The museum is open from 8 am - 5 pm, seven days a week.

The museum was built to honour the women's contribution to Vietnam. From costume of wedding, the tools for farming and fishing, to the fire arms that the women of Vietnam used in the fight against the intruders, the three-storey-museum was much more bigger than what we had expected. It cannot be considered as an impressive museum, but it can definitely keep us occupied with more than 20,000 objects exhibited. We stayed in the museum for one hour. More information about the museum is available at the Museum Official Website.

Tired, we decided to take taxi from Women's Museum to St. Joseph Cathedral. The journey took 5 minutes, with the fare of 18,000d.The cathedral is opened to public for prayer after 5 pm.

Built in 1886, this majestic Gothic cathedral is a house of worship for Catholics. The stain glass windows are breathtaking.  There are several lemon tea shops outside of the cathedral which worth trying.

We passed by Ly Quoc Su Pagoda on our way back to our hotel from St. Joseph Cathedral. The pagoda is located some 50 meters north to the cathedral. Dubbed one of the oldest pagoda in Hanoi, we found that the existing building there was actually built after 1954. The old one was buried deep under the flow of time.

In this afternoon tour, we actually made a big circle around Hoan Kiem Lake, clockwise. Our trip was blessed with a good weather. We learnt a lot of information about Hanoi from our HanoiKids tour guides. The tour was really helpful for us to familiarize with the places, especially when we went out on our own at night for shopping later. The information about attraction in 36-old-street is available at vietnamonline.com.

Next, our second day in Hanoi. We visited Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, One Pillar Pagoda, Presidential Palace, Temple of Literature, and Hanoi Citadel. 



Saturday, April 27, 2013

Food in Hanoi

We stayed in Hanoi for three days. We tried many local Hanoi dishes, and we strongly recommend the top three on our list- Hanoi beef noodle, Vietnamese spring roll, and Vietnam coffee.

Beef noodle soup is a must try food in Hanoi, unless beef is not your favorite. In local, the noodle made of rice is called 'Pho' (pronounce as fur in English). The common name for the dish is Pho-Bo (beef noodle soup). However, the name of the dish is much more specific in Hanoi.

Around Old Quarter, instead of pho-bo, we found pho-tai (noodle soup with half done beef fillet), pho-tai-gao (noodle soup with half done brisket beef), pho-chin (noodle soup with well done beef), and many more. The taste, varied from a place to another. Among these shops, Pho 10 served the best pho-bo. The shop is located at Ly Quoc Su, near to Ly Quoc Su Temple and St. Joseph Cathedral. The pho served by the shop was really nice. Plus, friendly staff, clean environment with air conditioned, and with reasonable price. We stopped at Pho 10 after visiting St. Joseph Cathedral. The review of this shop is available at Tripadvisor.

Pho 10 from the outside (upper left). The vivid outlook makes it easy to be seen. The shop is clean and tidy (upper right). The cooks are taking care of the order (lower left), and in less than 10 minutes, hot pho-tai was served.

Next, the spring roll. What is so special about the spring roll? The recipe. Spring roll is widely available in our country as well, which more commonly refereed as popiah. But the spring roll with seafood, pork, raw vegetable such as onion, mint leaves, tomato, that's authentic. Rainbow Restaurant offered nice spring roll. The location, Hang Hanh Road nearby Hoan Kiem Lake, some 50 meters away from our hotel- Hanoi Old Centre Hotel.

This is how the restaurant looks like from the outside (upper left) and from the inside (lower left). We have two options- steamed (upper right) or fried.

Vietnam coffee has a special taste. That makes the coffee "Vietnam coffee" (ouch).We tried Vietnam coffee at many places, before we stepped into Trung Nguyen outlet nearby Hoan Kiem Lake. That was our last night at Hanoi. We ordered Black Vietnam coffee and weasel coffee at the outlet. The coffee were served with single cup drip filter.

Trung Nguyen outlet nearby Hoan Kiem Lake (upper left). The another side of the outlet is used as tourism information centre. We bought several packets of Trung Nguyen coffee from the outlet (lower left), and took the opportunity to enjoy the world class coffee.

Then, the street food. Many hawkers selling food and drinks at the road side. The choice is ours. The food hygiene is always our biggest concern when we talk about street food. From what we could see, the street food served around Old Quarter were safe to be consumed. You will see more street food at the night market on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. We tried several dishes, including the kebab, che, sweet corn, lemon tea, and banh trang tron (pronounced as barn-chan-tron).We found very nice banh trang tron at 38, Hang Tron Road.

Street food is almost everywhere in Old Quarter, especially around the night market (upper left). Banh trang tron is a mixture of rice paper with salad and egg (upper right). Che is sort of ais batu campur in our country (lower left). It contains a mixture of fruits, sago, green beans, red beans, and ice. Chinese food is quite hard to find. The one that we tried somewhere near the night market was quite expensive. A combination of stewed pork, steamed chicken, and vegetable cost USD 5 per person. 

Refreshing lemon tea at the road side, in front of St. Joseph Cathedral.Photo taken with Smile (lady in pink on the left), one of our tour guides from HanoiKids. We would like to thank Thu for taking this photo for us.

We tried several other types of noodles. We found that the beef noodle soup is still the best around Hanoi.

Overall, Hanoi has enough authentic local food that keep us attracted. So, we didn't really visited any fast food outlets, or opt for Western food. Overall, we found that food at Hanoi taste good, and a bit similar to Chinese food. 

We stayed at Old Quarter area, so we could reach various of Vietnam food by foot. For the food lovers, staying somewhere within the Old Quarter Area might be a good idea. The food in Hanoi was not expensive. The noodles served in restaurants were between 40,000d - 60,000d (RM6.40 - 9.50/ USD2.10 - 3.10). Street food such as che and banh trang tron were available at 20,000d (RM3.20/ USD1.10). Lemon tea at the road side of St. Joseph Cathedral was served with 10,000d (RM1.60/ USD 0.52) per glass. Fresh fruit juices were served 30,000 per cup (RM5/ USD1.60). The price for the food and drinks were listed in Vietnamese Dong. So, bringing Dong would be more convenient compared to US Dollar. 

We will share more about our family trip at Hanoi with HanoiKids next.




Wednesday, April 24, 2013

HanoiKids, Great Ambassador of Hanoi

When we heard HanoiKids for the very first time, we couldn't hold our imagination. None of what we had imagined came close to what we met in Hanoi. They are young university students, friendly, energetic, helpful, good English, and they could get along with our family members very well. On top of that, they work voluntarily. It means, we are not obligated to pay for their service.

We had experienced taking a free service, which ended up with a merry-go-round of expensive merchandise outlets and souvenir shops. Once we met with handsomely paid tour guide who couldn't communicate effectively. A few others, good service with equal weighting of payment. Of course, once in a while, we stumbled onto those who offered excellent service with relatively low payment.

How about excellent service with zero cost? You must be crazy. Well, that's what we had in Hanoi.

As usual, before we departed to Hanoi, we had done our homework. Tripadvisor, Lonely Planet, Wikipedia, blogs, official websites, none escaped. Information was captured, and plans were drawn. What could be better than getting a local guide as companion? Well, instead of one, we had a team of two. We took two trips with the members of HanoiKids.

The first trip, day 1, afternoon. We strolled around our hotel at the old quarter. By foot, we visited Hoan Kiem Lake, Ngoc Son Temple, Thap Rua Tower (Turtle Tower), the Opera House, Vietnamese Women's Museum, St. Joseph Cathedral, and Ly Quoc Su Pagoda. The second trip, day 2, starting at Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in the morning, followed by Presidential Palace, Ho Chi Minh's house, One Pillar Pagoda, and the Temple of Literature. Then, in the afternoon, we visited Hanoi Citadel for about two hours before heading back to our hotel at 5 p.m.

During the trip, the members of HanoiKids guided our way, explained everything they could recall about places, helped us to call for taxi, worked as our translators, and tried very best to accommodate everything in our to-do list. They were good in recommending nice places to stop for lunch and dinner as well. The best part of being together with HanoiKids members is, they were more like friends than tour guides to us. We chatted a lot down the street and have learned invaluable information about the life in Hanoi.

Smile (pink shirt) and Thu (green shirt) with our family in front of Ngoc Son Temple. They told us the story about the turtle reservation in the temple later on.

Taking ice lemon tea beside St. Joseph Cathedral. Thu told us that resting on the small kid bench in front of the shops while enjoying the food and drinks is a part of Hanoi's life. Well, we like it!

Duc (right) and Thi (left) with us in front of Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. We have to express our highest appreciation to them for keeping up with our tight schedule- visiting many places in such a short period of time.

Thi was explaining something to Livien and Bryant.

We would like to express our highest gratitude to HanoiKids, especially to Thu, Smile, Thi, and Duc. Thank you very much for making our Hanoi trip a great experience for our family. You all are really great ambassadors of Hanoi. Keep up the good work. All the best and keep in touch.

More information about HanoiKids are available at http://hanoikids.org/

More sharing about our experience at Hanoi is available: Food in Hanoi.